Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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= light grey |
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= moss green |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper with stripes and raglan in DROPS Paris. Size children 5 to 14 years.
DROPS Children 15-14 |
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Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows on needles size 4.5 mm with Paris in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagrams are seen from RS. Stripes: Stripes after M.1. Knit as follows: Yoke: See start of diagram M.1. Back and front pieces: Continue with M.1. After M.1 repeat M.1b until finished measurement. Sleeve: Knit M.1 like back and front pieces until * in diagram. Knit M.1c 1 time in height. Continue with M.1 from * in diagram. After M.1 repeat M.1b until finished measurement. Knitting tip (applies to neck): To avoid holes when turning piece slip 1st st as if to knit when knitting back and tighten yarn slightly. Increasing tip (applies to raglan): Inc as follows from RS: Start 2 sts from marking threads: Yo, K4 (marking thread is placed in middle between these sts), yo. On next row K into back of yo (i.e. knit into back of sts in stead of into front of sts) to avoid creating hole when increasing. YOKE Knit piece in round on circular needle. Knit from top down so length of jersey is easily adjust according to requirement. Cast on 76-80-84-88-88 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with petrol. Knit Rib K2 / P2 until piece measures 3 cm. Insert 1 marking thread (MT) at beginning of round (= right side). Continue with a rise on back of neck (to ensure neck will fit neatly). Continue in Rib K2/ P2 and knit back and forth as follows: Knit 38-40-42-44-44 sts, turn piece – read Knitting tip – and knit back to MT. Turn piece. Knit 43-45-47-49-49 sts. Turn piece. Knit 48-50-52-54-54 sts back. Turn piece. Knit 56-58-60-62-62 sts. Turn piece. Knit 64-66-68-70-70 sts back. Turn piece. Knit 1 round over all sts and continue to MT. Continue all the way around. Knit 1 round stocking sts with petrol at the same time inc 12-10-8-12-12 sts evenly = 88-90-92-100-100 sts. Continuing knit 8 sts from MT (move round beginning). Insert 4 new MT into piece as follows: 1st MT in beginning of round (= 1st transition between right arm and back piece ), 2nd MT after 28-29-30-34-34 sts (= back piece), 3rd MT after 44-45-46-50-50 sts (= left sleeve), 4th MT after 72-74-76-84-84 sts (= front piece). Sts between 4th and 1st marking thread = right sleeve. Continuing knit stocking sts and stripes after M.1- see explanation above – until completed measurement. At the same time inc for raglan: Inc 1 sts on each side of 4 marking threads (= 8 inc) – read Increasing tips. Inc on each round 2-4-6-3-7 times and on every other round 15-15-15-18-17 times. After all inc for raglan there are 224-242-260-268-292 sts on needle. On next round slip 50-54-58-58-64 sts on each side (between 2nd and 3rd MT and between 4th and 1st MT) on 1 thread or stitch holder for sleeves. At the same time cast on 8 new sts on each side under sts on thread or stitch holder = 140-150-160-168-180 sts on needle. Back and front pieces: Continue in stocking sts and stripes after M.1 – see explanation above. On 1st round insert 1 MT on each side of piece under arm (i.e. 4 new sts on each side of MT). At the same time when piece measures 4 cm from MT on side dec 1 sts on each side of MT on every 5 -6 -5.5 -6 -6 cm 4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 124-134-140-148-160 sts. Continue until piece measures 41-44-49-51-53 cm from shoulder. Finish off M.1. If extra length is required continue knitting stripes from M.1 – see explanation above. Continue in Rib K2 / P2 with light grey. NOTE: Size 7/8 years: Before starting Rib knit 1 round stocking st and dec 2 sts evenly = 132 sts.) Continue like this until Rib measures approx 4 cm. Cast off loosely K over K and P over P. Piece measures approx 45-48-53-55-57 cm from shoulder. Sleeve: Slip sts from threads or stitch holder (= 50-54-58-58-64 sts) left on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Continue in stocking sts and stripes from M.1 – see explanation above. At the same time on 1st row cast on 8 new sts under sleeve = 58-62-66-66-72 sts. Insert 1 MT mid under sleeve (i.e. 4 new sts on each side of MT). When piece measures 4-4-3-3-3 cm from MT mid under sleeve dec 1 sts on each side of MT on every 3.5 -3 -3 -4 -3.5 cm 7-9-11-9-12 times in total = 44-44-44-48-48 sts. Continue knitting until piece measures 29-33-36-39-43 cm from MT mid under sleeve, change to light grey. Continue with Rib K2/ P2 for 6 cm, cast off loosely K over K and P over P. Assembly: Sew openings under arms. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (42)
Thanks for your answer relating to knitting short rows once knitting in rounds! You sent me a video how to do this. I suggest to include this video in your instructions.
28.03.2023 - 16:09Increase decription asks for knitting two rows: first row with increase by Yo and second to knit over the Yo. I assume that increaing every row means that I need to increase by first knitting over Yo from previous row and then immediatly make Yo. Is it a correct assumtion? I.e Yo every single row.
28.03.2023 - 15:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear JZ, correct, remember the increases should be always worked as explained under Increasing tip (applies to raglan):, ie work until 2 sts remain before marker, YO, K4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), YO; and repeat at each marker. Happy knitting!
29.03.2023 - 09:23In the raglan directions, so to be more clear, "every other row" does NOT mean alternating rows, it means every subsequent row, therefore each of the next 17 rows, inc 8 in each row. Correct?
23.02.2023 - 14:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Laura, when you have to increase 7 times on every round, increase on each of the next 7 rounds; when you have to increase on every other round a total of 17 times work as follows *work 1 round without increase, work 1 roudn with increases* work these 2 rounds a total of 17 times (= a total of 34 rounds will have been worked). Happy knitting!
23.02.2023 - 14:49I am having trouble with the raglan part of this pattern. I am making the size 14. I started with 100 stitches on, then inc 8 sts for each of the 7 rows gave me 156 sts, BUT, if I were to add 8 inc per every other row for the next 17 rows, I only have 220 sts - NOT 292. Should I inc 8 sts per row for each of the 17 next rows instead? Help! I look forward to finishing this project!
22.02.2023 - 23:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Laura, in size 13/14 years you first increase on every round for raglan a total of 7 times then you increase a total of 17 times on every other round, you will have then: 100 + (7x8) + (17x8) = 292 sts. Happy knitting!
23.02.2023 - 13:48Erre a részre gondoltam: "Folytassuk2 S / 2 F bordás mintával. Oda-vissza haladva kötünk:..."
02.05.2021 - 19:13Köszönöm szépen a gyors választ! Megint elakadtam. Ha a nyakánál kötöm az oda-vissza sorokat, utána elcsúsztatom a kezdést 8 szemmel akkor nekem a legkeskenyebb résznél lesz az új kör kezdete. Annak nem az elejének kellene lennie?
02.05.2021 - 12:55DROPS Design answered:
Kedves Timo, ha a pulóvert körben kötjük (tehát nem kardigánunk van) a sor/kör kezdete gyakran esik a háta és az egyik ujja közé. Sikeres kézimunkáázást!
02.05.2021 - 17:17Sziasztok! Segítségeteket szeretném kérni abban, hogy ha a vállrészt folyamatosan a színén kötöm, mivel körkötőtűvel készítem a minta szerint, akkor is minden sorban kell szaporitani? Nem csak minden másodikban? A másik kérdésem az lenne, hogy a mintaív szerint a színét mutatja a mintának. A körkötés miatt ezt is ugye úgy kell érteni, hogy duplázódik a sorszám? Válaszotokat előre is köszönöm
26.04.2021 - 07:56DROPS Design answered:
Kedves Timo, nem kell duplázni a sorokat a körkötés miatt. Vagyis a vállrész szaporítása, ahogy a leírásban is van : Szap minden körben 2-4-6-3-7 alkalommal majd minden 2. körben 15-15-15-18-17 alkalommal. Ezzel a raglánvonal egészen enyhén íves lesz. A minta kötésénél is MINDEN sort lát a diagramban, de minden sort úgy, ahogy azok a SZO felől látszanak (vagyis S szemkén, tehát a bord mintás szegélyeken kívül a pulóvert végig harisnyakötéssel kell kötni). Sikeres Kézimunkázást!
26.04.2021 - 10:23Ik meerder aan weerszijde van de merkdraden 1 steek. Voor de raglan, dat snap ik. Daarna staat er” Meerder 2-4-6 keer in elke naald ? ( waar in de naald?) en vervolgen 15 in elke tweede naald? ??? Snap echt niet hoe er gemeerderd moet worden. Dan staat er als de meerderingen voltooid zijn. Hoeveel naalden gaat dit over? Ik hoop dat u mij kunt helpen
20.07.2020 - 23:00DROPS Design answered:
Dag Sabine,
Je meerdert eerst in elke naald en dit doe je voor maat 5/6 2 keer, voor maat 7/8 doe je dit 4 keer, enzooort. Vervolgens meeder je op elke tweede naald dus om de naald. En dit doe je in totaal 15 keer.
23.07.2020 - 11:37Hej Jeg forstår ikke helt, at der står man skal strikke rundt og at man slår op på strømpepinde. Kan man bruge rundpinde ? Vh Elsebeth
10.06.2020 - 14:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Elsebeth, Ja hvis der er masker nok så de når rundt på en rundpind, så kan du vælge det istedet for strømpepinde. God fornøjelse!
10.06.2020 - 15:04Can I get this pattern knitting from bottom up. Tried top down few times and messed up. Probably because I’m old!
07.04.2020 - 10:30DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marian, could this video and/or this lesson help you to understand how to knit a jumper top down? Or maybe one of these patterns worked top down could help you? Do not hesitate to contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!
09.04.2020 - 15:38